What is the true cost of 'free advice'?

This blog may come across as negative and I apologise if it does, I don't intend it to be. I just wanted to raise an issue that a lot of us have in the business; being asked for free advice because people "can't afford it". Of course, times are hard and every penny counts, but if you are having training or behaviour issues with your dog, it is your duty to do all you can to resolve it with the guidance of a reputable professional.

Most trainers and behaviourists are small business owners that care deeply about their clients and prospective clients and the welfare of their dogs. A lot of us do work at discounted rates for local charities and the price you pay for our time doesn't necessarily reflect the amount of time we spend on each client. There is often report writing, phone calls and emails before/after the session and liaison with other paraprofessionals and vets. We have mortgages and bills to pay and families of our own to take care of. We are not a public service. Yet many of us are called/emailed by people experiencing
issues with their dogs, looking for free advice as they couldn't possibly afford to pay for a professional.

A rough estimate of the cost of my dog training & behaviour career to date:

Undergraduate degree/accomodation/living costs = £9000
1:1 training with well-respected professionals for me and my dog over the past 6 years = £9000 
Regular CPD webinars over the past 4 year = £300
Seminars and workshops over the past 6 years = £2200
Business insurance for the past 5 years = £1000
Business vehicle costs for the past 2 years = £2500
Books = £1500
Dog training venues/equipment for the past 2 years = £2000
Membership fees for the past 4 years = £900
Postgraduate degree/accommodation/living costs = £6000

TOTAL = £34,400

Of course, I wouldn't have it any other way and I'm certainly not suggesting that anyone owes me anything for my choice to educate myself and follow a dog training and behaviour career. However, next time someone quibbles paying £35 for a 1:1 training session with me because they couldn't possibly afford it, I'm going to remember the £35k that I've spent obtaining the knowledge and skills required to get to where I am and simply send them details of my rates. If they don't like it, they can go and educate themselves in order to help their dog, which judging from the above will be a lot more expensive!

Why rescue dogs are just great

First outing after adopting him

Recent events (health stuff and turning 30!) have turned me into even more of a sentimental sap than I was before so I thought I would put ink to screen and make a note of just how fabulous my best mate Jack really is. It can be really tough living with a 'reactive dog' and I wanted this blog to act as a pat on the back to everyone out there who is working through some behaviour issues with their canine family member. If you are just embarking on a journey with a new rescue dog, I hope that the pictures that follow show that with some forward thinking, environmental management and lots of fun, reward-based training, you can get out there and have a fabulous time with your pooch!

Jack + toy = happy

In 2008, me and my husband went to our local Blue Cross branch to 'have a look'. Haha we all know that isn't possible. We met a very handsome and very attentive collie cross called Jack who had been rehomed as a puppy, but returned after 8 months. He was now 16 months old and not doing too well in the kennel environment. We played with him, took him for a walk and after a tense week of home visits/training sessions, picked him up to bring him home. Little did we know the adventure we would be going on with him :)

Nice dog, shame about the handler!

I have hundreds of photos of the fun that we've had together over the years. Some of the highlights include:

• Learning all about agility and winning a few rosettes and trophies despite Jack being light years ahead of my poor handling skills! 

Camping trips

Guest of honour at our wedding

• Going on our first camping trip in a tent resulting in a very disturbed night of sleep and a soggy sleeping bag (thanks Jack!). We then bought a camper van to make life a lot easier! Since then, we've traveled all around the UK with the doglet - Somerset, Essex, Scotland, Wales, Newcastle, Wiltshire. He loves it in the van and we've seen some of the most beautiful places together. 

•  Being able to join in the celebrations when we got married and Jack coming along on our honeymoon in Wales. 

• Forcing/helping me to up my game when it came to my training and timing, particularly my clicker skills.  He's a smart cookie so trying to keep one step ahead has helped me to preempt what might happen in training sessions and work hard to minimise frustration etc. 

• The time that he almost killed us all but then saved our lives by turning the gas hob on in the middle of the night (probably trying to reach a bit of food) and then barking at us to wake up and turn it off.

• The milestone moments such as the first time we were able to have 2 pints in the pub garden

  

  Cheers!

  without Jack getting bored (that took months of really hard 'training'  in the pub!), when he was able to glance back at me for a reward instead of worrying about an approaching dog, the first time our recall training paid off and he came back to me instead of chasing a football, the fact that he now loves the sight of a brush despite his previous handling issues, throwing himself into any new experiences such as swimming in a hydrotherapy pool or following a track in scentwork training.  The list of milestones is endless.

Fun on the beach



Duck socialising

• Despite being a nutcase collie that loves nothing better than tearing around after a toy, he's so gentle with the other animals in the family. We have worked really hard to train positive, calm associations with the ducks, rabbits & guinea pigs and after a bit of work, I feel confident in him being able to be off lead around them.

• All the lovely new friends that I have made through dog training and studying. Just because your dog isn't a social butterfly, it doesn't mean you can't meet some fabulous people.

Don't get me wrong, he's not perfect (who is!) and there are some days when his need to provide a soundtrack to everyday life drives me potty but he has taught me so much and I am the trainer/behaviourist I am today largely because of him. I'm so lucky to have a fabulous support network around me who have helped with Jack's training, picked me up on the bad days and reminded me that life is too short to worry about things so to just get on and enjoy myself.

So to my lovely boy Mr Jack, we've had 6 very happy years together and I hope that we have many more to come. I love you very much you scruffy mutt, thanks for finding us xxx

Why rewards work & I'm a force-free trainer

I often get asked about the methods that I use to train dogs and I have a very open and honest policy about which techniques I do and don't use (see my website). My decision to become a force free trainer and join the PPG is not only due to the personal choice that I do not want to inflict pain or cause an animal to feel discomfort or fear, but also because the scientific evidence shows that positive reinforcement is a successful, effective technique to alter the way an animal behaves. 

Before you can decide which side of the (electric!) fence you sit, I thought it would be useful to give a quick refresher on learning theory as it helps to put everything into perspective. There are two 'types' of learning which we can apply to training dogs. I use both of these with pretty much everytime I interact with a dog:

Classical conditioning - is concerned with the way a stimulus makes you feel. It's 'hard wired' so doesn't require you to react consciously, for example, the way the sight of a yummy meal causes you to salivate. We use classical conditioning to 'link' training tools such as clickers or whistles with food/toys so that the dog responds to the conditioned stimulus in the same way.

Operant conditioning - is concerned with the way a stimulus makes you act. It is a more conscious reaction that has been learned from previous associations and relates to particular behaviours leading to particular consequences.There are 4 quadrants to operant conditioning: Positive reinforcement,
positive punishment, negative reinforcement and negative punishment.

The positive/negative can lead to misunderstanding as in this case, it doesn't mean good/bad, it means something being added (+) or something being taken away (-). Reinforcement means that the behaviour will be encouraged and therefore increased (R), whereas punishment means that the behaviour will be discouraged and therefore reduced (P).

I find the easiest way to remember is to think of some examples:

Positive reinforcement is something being added, resulting in an increase in a behaviour e.g. say your dog's name, they look up, you give them a treat. You're adding the treat to increase the  behaviour of paying attention or recalling when they hear their name.

Negative punishment is something being taken away, resulting in a decrease in a behaviour e.g. if your dog is jumping up at a toy in your hand, they aren't given the toy. You're 'removing' the toy to reduce the jumping up behaviour when you have a toy in your hand.

Positive punishment is something being added, resulting in a decrease in a behaviour e.g. if your dog is barking, you spray them with water or a spray collar. You're adding the aversive spray to reduce the behaviour of barking.

Negative reinforcement is something being taken away, resulting in an increase in a behaviour e.g. a harness which gives relief when the dog is walking nicely at heel. You're removing the pain/discomfort to increase the behaviour of walking on a loose lead.

The terminology above can lead to confusion and misleading information within the dog training sector. For example, if trainer A has on their website that they are a positive trainer, using only positive methods that's good right? And if trainer B says they use punishment, that's bad yeah? Hmm, not necessarily. What if trainer A means they are a positive punishment trainer and only use positive punishment methods and trainer B only uses negative punishment alongside positive reinforcement?

As a force free trainer, I only use methods that fall within the positive reinforcement and negative punishment quadrants. I would be lying if I said I never used punishment because every time I withhold a toy/treat/access because the dog is not exhibiting behaviour I want to reinforce (e.g. barking/jumping up/pulling on the lead) I am technically using negative punishment. Withholding a treat/toy or access is as far as I take the punishment side training and I most certainly do not use positive punishment or negative reinforcement of any kind.

One of the most common complaints or concerns I see about positive reinforcement or force free methods is that training with food leads to dogs getting fat and only responding when you have food in your hand. This is absolutely not true. My clients are asked to use their dogs daily allowance of food in their training (but substitute it for higher value treats in certain environments) to ensure that the food they receive in training is not 'extra' food. I also use toys a lot in training to reward dogs and toys are not only calorie free but provide mental and physical exercise. I also teach my clients to use food as a reward, not a bribe. We use luring for very young puppies or for new tricks, but quickly phase out the food lure. The reward needs to occur because of the behaviour, not the behaviour occurs because of the reward.

It would be misleading if I denied that positive punishment 'works' to reduce an unwanted behaviour when executed efficiently. The same scientific evidence that shows the merits and effectiveness of positive reinforcement, also shows the effectiveness of positive punishment techniques such as shock collars. However, there are knock-on consequences to positive punishment techniques and there is often behavioural fall-out when these methods are used because they are based on fear, intimidation and pain. The question of why people are seduced by shock and painful, forceful methods is something I may have to save for another blog (or PhD!) but I think that Ian Dunbar's quote sums it up very eloquently; 

To use shock as an effective dog training method you will need:

A thorough understanding of canine behavior.

A thorough understanding of learning theory.

Impeccable timing.

And if you have those three things, you don’t need a shock collar. 

— Dr. Ian Dunbar

Also, the DEFRA code of practice for the welfare of dogs states that  "All dogs should be trained to behave well, ideally from a very young age. Only use positive reward-based training. Avoid harsh, potentially painful or

frightening training methods". 

In summary, learning theory is very complex and any trainer or behaviourist worth employing should have a thorough understanding of classical and operant conditioning, and which quadrant their training methods are categorised under. In my opinion, there is simply no need to use aversive methods which involve frightening or forcing your dog into doing/not doing a particular behaviour. The vast majority of behaviour cases that I see have been caused or exacerbated by the use of aversive methods. I just cannot fathom why some trainers still follow the more 'old school' fear-based techniques that inflict pain and cause the dog to become more fearful. If a dog is exhibiting fear-based aggression due to a previous aversive experience, why on earth would inflicting more fear make things 'better' and improve the behavioural response? Of course the underlying cause for behaviour is what a reputable trainer or behaviourist would be looking for before even thinking about how to resolve the issues using counter conditioning, desensitisation and environmental management.

I have barely scratched the surface here today and there are lots of links below which you can work through if you want to find out more. I hope that you feel a bit better informed about the learning processes that take place during training and why I choose to use force-free, reward-based methods and all of my dogs and doggy clients are very thankful for that!

Now stop reading this, close your laptop and go outside to play with your dog :)

Further reading

An animal trainer's guide to learning theory: http://www.wagntrain.com/OC/
What are the implications of using training methods that cause pain or suffering in animals? http://www.dogwelfarecampaign.org/implications-of-punishment.php
APBC - Shock Collars, the shocking truth: http://www.apbc.org.uk/articles/shockcollars
PPG - training tools to avoid: http://www.petprofessionalguild.com/petprofessionalresources
Why we don't use aversives: https://www.facebook.com/notes/dog-training-advice-and-support/why-we-dont-use-aversives-by-emma-judson/649293208419573
APDT coe of practice - http://www.apdt.co.uk/members-only/code-of-practice
DEFRA Code of Practice for the Welfare of Dogs - https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/69390/pb13333-cop-dogs-091204.pdf

Being a 'responsible dog owner'

There are of course several ways that the title 'responsible dog owner' can be interpreted. This note focuses on how to be responsible with your dog/s when out and about in the countryside. During the summer months, land managers experience an increase in the range of 'issues' with dog walkers and all of them can be avoided. With some simple steps, we could all be out there enjoying the wonders of the British countryside without any conflict or safety/welfare implications for our dogs and local wildlife or livestock.

Livestock
Dog attacks on livestock can be extremely expensive to deal with and very stressful for the animals involved. Taylor (1999) reports 30,000sheep per annum being victims of dog attacks in the UK at a cost of£1.7 million². Whilst dog attacks are distressing, there is also the ‘hidden’ impact of dogs amongst livestock. Although grazing animals may have no physical wounds, the regular presence of dogs can cause a change in behaviour and health problems. MacArthur (1982) approached partially habituated sheep and the strongest negative reaction from the sheep was towards a person walking with a dog. The sheep’s heart rates increased successively when in the company of a dog on a lead, but did not increase for passing vehicles or aircraft². There is also evidence to show that livestock can be affected by the presence of dogs via parasites⁵.

If you are likely to walk in areas with grazing animals, it is vital that you expose your dog to them at an early age. Most problems with wildlife or livestock chasing can be easily prevented by keeping your dog on the lead or on a long line with a body harness if you want to give your dog a little more freedom on their walk. If you are not sure about how your dog will react around horses/cattle/deer always be cautious and keep them on a lead or long line until you have done enough training around them to be 100% sure your dog will not chase or that you can reliably recall if they show some interest. Employ the services of a force-free trainer or behaviourist to find out more about how you can reduce your dogs tendency to chase and keep him/her safe on walks. There are numerous horror stories about dogs setting off after something in woodland and becoming impaled or wounded during the chase.

Fouling
The issue of dog fouling receives a high level of resource from local councils and governments and it is clearly an emotive issue as226,000 complain about dog fouling each year to their local council². It ². Studies show that defecation largely occurs in the first 10 minutes of a walk and that most faeces are deposited within 1m of a path or about 400m of an access point².

is estimated that 1,000 tonnes of dog faeces are deposited in the UK everyday and faeces can take up to 2 months to break down

There is a general misconception among dog walkers that fouling only causes a problem for other visitors and that if the dog fouls off a main path or in a patch of nettles there is no need to pick up. On naturere serves with a delicate nutrient balance, the additional nutrients that dog faeces put into the soil can have detrimental effects to the local flora and fauna. Gilbert (2000) demonstrated that soils in semi-natural grassland generally have levels of phosphorus below 8mg/kg. Bonner and Agnew(1983) showed that areas with high dog usage had a phosphorus level almost 10 times higher than this².

Dog walkers may feel that if there are cattle/sheep/rabbits/foxes defecating on a site, it is no different for their dogs to do the same. However, this is not the case. Dog faeces represent an importation of nutrients onto a site (given that the dog’s food is grown elsewhere) whereas the extensive grazing of livestock results in a net export of nutrients (the nutrient value in their faeces is derived from nutrients grown on the site and nutrients are removed inthe form of meat). Another common complaint is that there aren't enough bins but do we really want red bins blighting our countryside? Bins cost money to empty and must be accessible by car to be emptied - is it really that hard to pick up and carry the bagged waste back to your car for safe disposal at home? Dog waste can be disposed of in your wheely bin or most litter bins, or even better you can get a dog waste composter for your garden.

Wildlife
This tendency to chase wildlife is accentuated in certain breeds such as gun dogs, scenthounds and ² terriers but all dog breeds can possess the drive to chase. This is worrying for conservationists when coupled with the fact that disturbed animals respond to dogs as if they were predators².Nesting birds show a greater behavioural response when disturbed by dogs, than when disturbed by walkers and, for some species, also byjoggers².Flushing distance (i.e. the distance from the disturbance at which the birds re-settle) has been shown to be greater when a visitor has a dog, than for an unaccompanied walker².

Research suggests fewer pairs of breeding birds settle in areas with high disturbance levels where dogs are present².Timing of the disturbance also has significance as it has been proven that the further birds are into the breeding season, the less likely they are to desert their eggs or young².Fernandez and Azkona (1993) also found that marsh harrier fledglings were less fit due to disturbance from people and dogs. This is presumably due to less food being provided by the adults due todisturbance².However, disturbance by dogs is not only a concern during the bird nesting season as energetic costs of disturbance are a key concern for wintering birds². The term ‘sphere of influence’ is often used to describe the area that a dog will roam in when off lead on a walk. In the open moorland of the Peak District, the ‘sphere of influence’ could be as wide as 300-400m across a footpath².The findings of Mallord show that reducing the sphere of influence and asking visitors to keep to paths can have a positive effect on nesting bird populations. Disturbance by dogs is not limited to bird species and probably deer are the most commonly 'chased'.

Below is an extract from the Countryside Code, produced by Natural England. Whilst the Countryside Code isn't legislation in it's own right, it does set out the legal responsibilities of people (with or without dogs) when visiting the countryside in England and Wales.

When you take your dog into the outdoors,always ensure it does not disturb wildlife, farm animals, horses or other people by keeping it under effective control. This means that you:

• keep your dog on a lead, or
• keep it in sight at all times, be aware of what it’s doing and be confident it will return to you promptly on command
• ensure it does not stray off the path or area where you have a right of access

Special dog rules may apply in particular situations, so always look out for local signs – for example:

• Dogs may be banned from certain areas that people use, or there may be restrictions, byelaws or control orders limiting where they can go in
• The access rights that normally apply to open country and registered common land (known as‘open access’ land) require dogs to be kept on
  a short lead between 1 March and 31 July, to help protect ground nesting birds, and all year round near farm animals.
  
• At the coast, there may also be some local restrictions to require dogs to be kept on a short lead during the bird breeding season, and to prevent disturbance to flocks of resting and feeding birds during other times of year.
  

It’s always good practice (and a legal requirement on ‘open access’ land) to keep your dog on a lead around farm animals and horses, for your own safety and for the welfare of the animals. A farmer may shoot a dog which is attacking or chasing farm animals without being liable to compensate the dog’s owner. However, if cattle or horses chase you and your dog,it is safer to let your dog off the lead – don’t risk getting hurt by trying to protect it. Your dog will be much safer if you let it run away from a farm animal in these circumstances and so will you. Everyone knows how unpleasant dog mess is and it can cause infections, so always clean up after your dog and get rid of the mess responsibly –‘ bag it and bin it’. Make sure your dog is wormed regularly to protect it, other animals and people.

References and recommended reading links

1. Managing Dogs in the Wood, Forestry Commission - http://www.forestry.gov.uk/pdf/fce-managing-dogs.pdf/$FILE/fce-managing-dogs.pdf
2. Dogs, Access and Nature Conservation, Natural England - http://publications.naturalengland.org.uk/publication/65013
   
3. Understanding the Psychology of Dog Walkers - http://www.forestry.gov.uk/pdf/eng-dogs-understanding-psychology-dog-walkers-06.pdf/$FILE/eng-dogs-understanding-psychology-dog-walkers-06.pdf
4. The Countryside Code - http://www.forestry.gov.uk/pdf/eng-dogs-understanding-psychology-dog-walkers-06.pdf/$FILE/eng-dogs-understanding-psychology-dog-walkers-06.pdf
5. Dogs, livestock & parasites - http://www.farmersguardian.com/home/livestock/livestock-features/sheep-worm-dogs-to-avoid-abattoir-rejections/63902.article
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

How to choose a dog trainer or behaviourist

The world of dog training and behaviour is largely unregulated, although there are industry standards set out by the Animal Behaviour and Training Council http://www.abtcouncil.org.uk/setting-standards.html.Few people are aware, but all dog owners have legal obligations regarding the training of their pet as set out in the dog code of practice that accompanies the Animal Welfare Act 2006 –https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/69390/pb13333-cop-dogs-091204.pdf.This document states that "All dogs should be trained to behave well,ideally from a very young age. Only use positive reward-based training. Avoid harsh, potentially painful or frightening training methods".

Without some serious homework and a trusted person in the know to guide you, it is easy to be overwhelmed by the various acronyms associated with the dog training and behaviour sector. This can lead to wasted time,money and potentially detrimental impacts to the behaviour and welfare of your dog if you end up in the hands of a 'professional' that uses outdated, aversive techniques to train or 'solve' behaviour problems.

Whilst every dog owner does not need to become an expert in the world of dog training and behaviour, they do need to know who to trust and I hope that this article gives dog owners out there some confidence in finding an experienced professional that uses reward-based methods and will help you to train your dog in a safe,ethical way using modern, science-based techniques. If you want to know whether to trust me (!) check out the 'About me' file in the notes section of my facebook page.

So here are some key questions to ask when looking into employing the services of a dog behaviour or training professional:

Do they have any Qualifications in animal behaviour?
Some of the most knowledgeable trainers and behaviourists that I know do not have degrees, but anyone that takes their profession seriously will have affiliated themselves to an organisation that is in line with their ethics or undertaken a range of training or seminars with reputable trainers/organisations (see below). The Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors has a comprehensive list of accredited academic courses in the UK on their website http://www.apbc.org.uk/info/training_courses and individuals with higher level qualifications may display letters after their name; PhD, MSc, PGDip, BSc

Do they have an accreditation or affiliation to a professional organisation?
There are a number of organisations that have set their own membership criteria and invite professionals to join for an annual fee. Being a member of these organisations allows the individual to be part of a network of like-minded trainers and behaviourists that adhere to particular codes of practice and do not advocate the use of aversive methods.

Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors - http://www.apbc.org.uk/
Association of Pet Dog Trainers - http://www.apdt.co.uk/
Association for the Study of Animal Behaviour –http://asab.nottingham.ac.uk/accred/index.php
Centre of Applied Pet Ethology - http://www.coape.co.uk/
Karen Pryor Academy - https://www.karenpryoracademy.com/
Jean Donaldson Academy - http://www.academyfordogtrainers.com/
Pet Professional Guild - http://www.petprofessionalguild.com/
Institute of Modern Dog Trainers - http://www.imdt.uk.com/
UK Registry of Canine Behaviourists - http://www.ukrcb.org/

What does their website say?
A flashy website with some nice images can be an extremely effective marketing tool and portray a certain image about the professionalism of the company. However, websites are very easy to build and are not necessarily a reflection of the person behind the pages. What does the website actually state? What websites do they link to? Do they refer to 'pack leaders' or dominance (as this should ring alarm bells - see here)? Read between the lines and don't be drawn in by the look of the site.

What methods do they use?
Do they specifically state which methods they use and which methods they don't use? If not, ask them! The APDT has an extensive list of training equipment and techniques that all members must not use and this is a good guide of what to avoid from other professionalshttp://www.apdt.co.uk/about

What are their classes like?
If you are thinking of enrolling in a training class, ask if you can go along to watch without your dog. Most trainers and behaviourists will be very keen that you're taking your dog's training so seriously and it is much easier to walk away from a situation you are unhappy with when you don't have your dog there too. Watch the dogs in class, do they look relaxed? If they are being vocal or look stressed, has the instructor noticed and have they taken steps to manage the situation? What methods are they using? Is the class well managed or chaotic? How many dogs are there per instructor?

The collaboration of force-free, reward-based trainers and behaviourists is key if we are to educate dog owners about the merits of positive reinforcement . We need to inspire the public and encourage them to vote with their wallets by not employing the services of trainers and behaviourists that use outdated, aversive methods. We need to apply the advice that we give to our clients and set new dog owners up to succeed by providing them with the tools and knowledge they require to make an informed decision about the professionals they employ to help them with their dog.

Being breedist . . .

Excellent news!

http://www.gloucestercitizen.co.uk/Staffordshire-Bull-Terrier-defies-fighting-dog/story-21017689-detail/story.html#ixzz301JpJ0Lb

Confession of a dog trainer

Book Review: Treating Separation Anxiety in Dogs by Malena DeMartini-Price

Wow, what a read! Malena describes her work with separation anxiety clients as an emotional rollercoaster, and this book certainly reflects that beautifully whilst also giving the reader the confidence and motivation to get out there and help clients*. The book opens with an foreword by Sandi Thompson, author of the hugely honest and moving article - Living with dogs that suffer from severe separation anxiety. The first section covers diagnosis and the importance of assessing the behaviours and motivation to establish whether it is isolation distress, boredom/attention or mild/moderate/severe separation anxiety. Malena discusses getting owner buy-in by setting realistic expectations and timescales, how to assess the dog's behaviour (illustrated by videos in the appendix - see the heartbreaking Weston on YouTube) and introduces the 5 main components of the treatment program:

• Medication/supplements
• Management
• Technology
• Toys/games
• Behaviour modification.

The outward symptoms stop when the internal suffering ends, never the other way around.

Malena goes on to describe each of these components in more detail, with pages dedicated to one of my favourite tools; baby gates! For me, environmental management is key and fundamental to the success of any behaviour/training plan and I certainly picked up some new tips about how to successfully introduce a barrier such as a baby gate from this book. Attention is also paid to the importance of the dog not being left for longer than it can cope with at any stage, and how to help your client create a support network of dog sitters so that they can go about 'normal life' whilst they are undertaking the behaviour modification plan.

The only thing you can say is that getting to a better place won't happen unless the work is undertaken.

The treatment protocol section gives five phases to work through with your clients, with each phase covering the baby steps and gradual process required to make progress. Each phase has key achievements to aim for and there is an emphasis on journal keeping, monitoring progress and adjusting the plan to fit the reaction of the dog to ensure that he/she is able to cope before moving on. A revelation for me was the use of scent games and 'find it' in phase 2 as a way of building up the confidence of the dog and his/her ability to focus on a task when the owner is out of sight, albeit briefly. "Find it" is something I routinely teach to foster independence and confidence in my client's dogs, along with using their nose and giving owners options for games to play that aren't over-arousing. However, it hadn't really occurred to me that it is also a useful tool to directly treat hyper-attachment or separation anxiety and this is certainly something that I will with clients use in future. Malena also emphasizes the importance of dogs being taught to settle when the chew/food toy has 'run out' and this is also something that I want to develop with my own clients, particularly when crate training puppies.

Your success, both with the dog and the bottom line of your business, depends on your wise selection of clients.

Case study: Pumpkin

As a behaviourist that has taken on several separation cases in the past, I felt that I had some of the component parts in my toolbox to help my clients through a separation anxiety behaviour modification program. However, this book has made me realise that there is a lot more that I could be doing for my clients to make the process simpler to understand and implement. The way that the protocols are designed and the phased approach to the modification plan is brilliantly put together and break the required training down into manageable steps to work through at a pace that suits the client. Whilst separation anxiety is notoriously difficult to work through, this book empowers professionals to take on these cases and provide the support network that clients need to succeed and make progress with their dog's anxiety issues*. Malena summarises it perfectly with her final thoughts "I urge you to begin taking on these cases. Desperate owners and dogs need you - and helping them is more rewarding than you can imagine". So to all the UK behaviourists out there, get yourself a copy of this book so that we can all work together to create more success stories like the lovely Pumpkin.

Available from Positive Animal Solutions priced £13.50 (free P&P)

*Polite note: professionals should not practice outside their area of expertise and should refer cases on to a colleague or member of a reputable organisation if they are not sufficiently experienced or require further advice.

Book review: Coming soon

Hot off the press: "Treating Separation Anxiety in Dogs" by Malena DeMartini-Price

Look what just arrived in the post! A big thanks to http://www.positiveanimalsolutions.com/ for dispatching it so quickly. I'm hoping to read it tonight so watch this space for my review.....

Sweet dog trick

Running bang trick by a very sweet little dog. I'm thinking this could help me do the housework. If I keep asking Jack to do a running bang, it'll eventually sweep the floors! :)

http://dachshundfanclub.com/running-bang/

Book Review: The Art of Introducing Dogs by Louise Ginman

Well it turns out being immobile has some perks, one of which being that I can finally start making a dent in the huge reading pile that has been taking over every side table in the house over the past 6 months. I thought I'd share my thoughts with all of you and first on the list is "The Art of Introducing Dogs: A guide for conducting dog-to-dog introductions" by Louise Ginman which was recommended on Patricia McConnell's recent blog.

I'm really impressed as it's a well written and easy read with some great illustrations to accompany the introduction protocols. Louise highlights the importance of considering personality, play styles, breed, sex age etc. when looking for a new addition to the household and the overriding theme of the book is to preempt and prevent any issues occurring in the first place, something that I really respect and try to put across to my clients with everyday training. The book is split into 3 chapters, with the first covering the assessment and personality traits of the existing dog and potential new addition. Socialisation, play styles, bite inhibition and resource guarding are used as measures to assess the potential for issues to arise and how these can be prevented. Particular attention is paid to developing canine communication skills or employing the services of a behaviourist to help. "During introductions it is vital that you or an experienced trainer can correctly read what the dogs are saying, as failure to do so could quickly lead to a fight or escalation in tension".

Chapter 2 goes through the different methods of introducing two new dogs, what to watch for and how to react. There are some smart suggestions to reduce potential tension and the emphasis on short, positive interactions (or proximity) should help to counteract the unfortunately widespread  'let them off lead and see what happens' mentality when it comes to introducing dogs. I particularly love the suggestions of using scent to do the work for you, with both dogs being allowed to bimble around in the same area one at a time. Parallel walking is another great suggestion which I have had great success with when introducing short term boarders to my collie Jack."If things are a little tense, end on a positive note (remember - know when to quit) and try again tomorrow."

The final section of the book highlights the importance of enrichment, home alone schedules and keeping up the momentum of the initial introductions to ensure that things don't slip and the dogs continue to settle. Keeping stress levels low is the key to success and Louise also addresses the difficult issue of knowing when to abandon the introduction and consider rehoming. The summary messages that the reader is left with are extremely thought provoking and depict the reality of the work required to successfully introduce a new dog to the family. The appendix also contains numerous step by step training protocols to guide owners through introductions which I'm sure would prove extremely useful. "Slow and steady wins the race"

I would certainly recommend this to clients and it's a useful book to have on the shelf and lend out/refer to. Most of the information and techniques are things that I already recommend to my clients but this is set out as a step by step processes and the importance of management is highlighted time and time again which is excellent. I think this book serves as a great tool for anyone looking to get a new dog or even having dogs come to stay for short periods. So all in all, a very well spent £8.50 and I would recommend you get yourself a copy!

Bedtime logistics

A fairly normal occurrence in the Light household. As long as we know we're being outsmarted by the dog it's ok .... right....?! :)

Testing, testing!

This is my first post on my blog which is (spoiler alert!) likely to be quite dull for the next few weeks as I'm stuck at home recovering from a rather painful operation. I've got no dog clients or training classes for a whole month and I'm beginning to wonder how I'm going to cope without my daily dose of doggy! Jack will obviously keep me topped up but I'm a self-confessed dog-spotting geek that notices every pooch within a mile radius and can't help but comment on their behaviour/tail/ears/coat/gait/lead/collar/harness..... Luckily I have the internet to entertain me and I'll be commenting on and sharing it with you so stay tuned for cool training videos, cute photos, useful behaviour tips and my observations of the magical world of dogs.
Until next time . . . .
Nat x